
The first rot I dug out took me about three hours to do a square foot and I was feeling glum about the messiness and magnitude of this job of rebuilding the deck. A couple of days later I was up to more than a square foot per hour. I bought the router and got up to about three square feet and hour. The rot in the photo on the port bow was cleaned out in about two hours!
I am happy to have progressed up the learning curve for removing deck core but will be content with my current expertise.
Cutting the kerf in the curved plywood usually works fine. Now and then your grip on the workpiece jiggles and there are some saw gouges maybe 1/16th inch. This doesn't matter as the kerf gets worked over with the big disc sander to fit it to the hills and dales in the fiberglass. I expect that the epoxy putty will take care of gaps so it doesn't have to be perfect.
The top of the core will be sanded to level it off before I start laying on the fiberglass and this will give a me another chance to make up for some un-even laying of the core.
We woke to 32 degree temperatures, 20 mph NE winds, overcast, and snow flurries. I drove Mom to work, today marks the downhill side of her 6-week stint. Afterwards I checked the stores for a soft rubber pad to go on my Velcro, Bosch, orbital sander. I had seen an ad for these in a magazine and it should help to sand the outside of the hull. Home Despot had some for other model sanders. I may try to manufacture one during this cloudy day.
I also woke up at 5AM thinking about how to bend and laminate some wood that spans the beam of the boat along the back edge of the cockpit, to support the Harken mainsheet traveler. It will have to curve in both the horizontal and vertical plane. If you steam or heat wood, it gets softer, like plastic, and will bend easier and hold some of it's set. It springs back a little after taking it out of the clamps or mold. Bends my mind. I suppose I can use any failures for firewood.
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